- Manufacturer: Compaq Computer Corporation
- Type: Portable computer (dragable)
- Released: 1987
- OS: Compaq DOS 3.1
- CPU: Intel 80286 @ 12 MHz (FPU option)
- Memory: 640 KB (upgradable with expansion cards)
- Display: 10" gas-plasma display
- Graphics: Up to 640 × 400 pixels (double max CGA)
- Textmode: 80 × 25 column (ANSI)
- Sound: PIT (PC speaker)
- Connectivity: CGA, serial, parallel
- Dimensions: 41 x 19.2 x 24.8 cm
- Weight: 9.1 kg
- Predecessor: Compaq Portable II
- Successor: Compaq Portable 386
Released 1987: The Compaq Portable III is a PC/AT-clone computer released by Compaq Computer Corporation in 1987. It was advertised as being much smaller and lighter than the previous portable x86-PCs, however it was still quite large by today’s standards. Its street price upon its release was 4999 USD for a model equipped with a 12 MHz Intel 80286, 640 KB RAM, 1.2 MB 5.25″ floppy, 20 /40 /60 MB hard disk, and a 10″ amber colored gas-plasma display or 5799 USD with the upgraded 40 MB hard disk. There was also an optional ISA Expansion chassis allowed for two full length 16-bit ISA add-in cards. Power is supplied using a mains electricity outlet, no battery exists.
Repair and upgrades
Got this one from a college at my job. An error message about inserting the “Diagnostic disk” and “no settings found” on startup. The machine and keyboard also needed a throughout clean, and the keyboard coil cable was “rotten”.
A friend has an vintage PC with 5.25″ floppy drive and he made wrote me a Compaq DOS 3.1 floppy, I’ve also found the diagnostic/BIOS setup software for this model on Internet and copied it to an floppy. This model got no BIOS setuo software built into its ROM and needs to run the setup from disk.
Turns out, this computer got a non-rechargeable battery integrated into an special IC chip “Dallas chip” for storing the CMOS/BIOS settings. No surprise, the battery was long gone. The “Dallas chip” contains a small amount of CMOS RAM and the RTC (clock) as well.
Dallas “RTC” chip: I found some information about the Dallas chip on Internet, and removed if from the mainboard, luckily it was in a socket. I used a carpet knife to carefully scrape holes exactly where the ground and plus for the battery are located (above pin 16 and 20 I think). I cut the ground leading to the integrated battery and soldered on two wires for a new battery. I removed a battery holder from a cheap Christmas decoration snowman I had laying around. Finally, I inserted the fixed chip back on the main board again. The computer now remembers both CMOS settings and time, this is necessary for an harddrive to work as to correct type of harddrive needs to be preset from a list.
Harddrive: The original 2.5″ Conner harddrive was “dead”, no surprise really. I removed the drive and tested it on an Linux PC with testing softwar to make sure it was really dead. This computer uses an IDE/ATA harddrive, so a CF memory card adapter should work as a replacement. I made setup for a CF card, it worked perfectly for a few minutes, then it froze. After several tries, I concluded it was not going to work with the adapter or CF card.
Now I got an SD memory card adapter for the IDE/ATA controller instead, I was told this was more compatible with old IDE interfaces. I got an 128 MB SD card laying around. I managed to setup and format an 102 MB partition. To make it autoboot, I had to use the unofficial option MBR for the FDISK command, FDISK /MBR. It forces the boot sector i be written on the card, or something like that. Luckily it worked fine.
Keyboard cable: Keyboard cable cover plastic was in a terrible condition and was cracking and falling off. I found a coiled keyboard extension cable with the old 5 pin DIN connector on eBay. It was very difficult the split the keyboard open without breaking any of the clips, three of them broke even when I used my time on “wrestling” it. Then I had to just measure with my multimeter what color of wires corresponded to the old cable and solder it onto the keyboard PCB very carefully. It turned out great.
Floppy drive: The plastic eject button was missing. I made a 3-D model of the eject-button by looking at photos and measuring. I also first made a wood mock-up to be sure I got it right. It fitted just perfect.
Mouse and FPU: As a bonus, I was lucky to find an old serial port mouse for it, laying around at my job. I also installed an 80287 @ 8 MHz FPU, just because it had a free socket for it.